“In Chungking Mansions, you can interact personally with different ethnicities—chatting with Indians, Africans, Japanese people, and more—to know what they eat, how they speak, and to understand each other’s culture.”
Ghana Locals has been a fixture in Chungking Mansions for seven years. Its owner, Tess, moved to Hong Kong in 2000 to join her Ghanaian husband who was working here. She candidly admits that she knew absolutely nothing about the city before she arrived; having set off driven solely by the desire to start a new life with the man she loved. Upon her arrival, the very first place her husband took her after leaving the airport was Chungking Mansions for a meal. She recalls that the building felt like a world apart from the rest of the city—a place where Black, South Asian, and diverse ethnic groups converged. It was here she discovered that one truly could find people from every corner of the globe in a single spot.
In those early days, everything was unfamiliar, and Tess felt too shy to strike up a conversation with anyone in the building. However, after breaking the ice and find the courage to reach out, she realised that the people here were incredibly friendly. This inspired her to open her own restaurant, motivated by the belief that the building’s diverse and open atmosphere would allow her to connect different communities through food. “Beyond making a living, I wanted to create a place that felt like home—somewhere to foster community and promote Ghanaian food and culture,” she says. She believes that food truly possesses the power to bring people together. She sees tourists from Japan and Vietnam visiting specifically to try flavours vastly different from their daily diet, while others come to reminisce about meals they once enjoyed in Africa.
Having lived in Hong Kong for over two decades, Tess has grown to love the city’s sense of order. “The children here are well-behaved, transportation is incredibly convenient, and the safety is top-notch—you can go anywhere you like, 24 hours a day,” she notes. She also senses that locals have become much more approachable toward the Black community compared to when she first arrived. She attributes this mostly to the breaking down of language barriers, with more people speaking English or using instant translation apps to facilitate friendship. By the same token, she has noticed more local Chinese visitors coming to Chungking Mansions, including students who join guided tours to experience the culture first-hand.
Through her restaurant, Tess has witnessed a fascinating blend of cultural exchange and occasional “collisions”. For instance, when she first opened, she followed the Ghanaian custom of playing loud, high-energy music, only to realise that Hong Kong diners weren’t accustomed to eating in such a vibrant acoustic environment. Local Chinese customers, who initially used cutlery, have also been seen gradually adopting the traditional way of eating with their hands, mirroring the customs of West Africa. For Tess, the greatest reward of running a business in Chungking Mansions is the insight she gains into cultures beyond her own. “Here, you can interact personally with people of all ethnicities—chatting with Indians, Africans, Japanese people, and many more—to learn about what they eat, their way of speaking, and to understand one another’s way of life.”
West African cuisine is famous for its spice, with Ghanaian food being its defining representative. Tess explains that the level of spice can be tailored to each guest’s preference. “We also adjust the spice based on the ingredients; for example, Goat Light Soup (aponkye nkrakra) needs to be a bit spicier to balance the gaminess of the meat.” She continues with pride, “Ghanaian cuisine is among the best in Africa because our ingredients are organic and fresh, without additives. The heavy use of vegetables in our recipes, particularly in our nourishing soups, is what makes our food so healthy.”
Two years ago, Tess began a renovation of the restaurant. The kitchen and ventilation systems are already finished, and she is currently preparing to install a new bar counter, a cashier area, and new refrigeration. When asked what the restaurant will look like once the transformation is complete, Tess offers a knowing smile: “There will be a huge change. You’ll see when the time comes.”
Interviewed by K. Hang Wong
Cover Image: 重慶一角 by Bon
